UK, week 2

Before leaving Bristol last Friday, we had to try making “cream teas.” This ill-named treat is not tea at all, but rather jam and clotted cream on scones. The order of jam and cream differs according to locale: the enlighten Cornwall-ians first spread on the jam and then add the creme, while the troglodytes over in Dover go with cream first, then jam. Here Emily demonstrates both methods:

Regardless of assembly, they are delicious and were an instant favorite of mine (Amy was indifferent). Cream tea and I shall meet again.

A brief stop in the Cotswolds for a picnic lunch:

We reached our farm destination in Clun Valley on Friday afternoon and were ready to begin our “wwoofing” experience. That’s not a typo; it stands for World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms (google it for more info).

We were far away from any main roads; this was very, very rural England.

The farmer (Trevor) was away until morning, but had provided instructions on where we’d be staying. Our “room” was a building typically used for farming workshops held on the property throughout the year. It felt like we were at summer camp. I liked it.

Once the girls found the farm cats and kittens, they liked it too.

With neither internet nor work assignments, we had nothing to do except sit on our front steps and listen to the bleating sheep dotting the rolling country side. The girls played with the cats. Occasionally we’d talk about something unimportant. It was one of my favorite moments of this trip.

The next day we got to work. My main project of our stay was replacing the brakes and taillights of the farmer’s trailer. It felt good to get my delicate computer hands dirty.

Amy and the girls kept the chickens and pigs fed, but their main project was sanding, staining and polyurethaning the railings of the building we were staying in. They did a great job, even with the uncommonly hot daytime temperatures.

There was a constant presence of near-lethal amounts of cuteness:

These cats were thin and hungry, so feeding them became a common occurrence:

As was seeing a hopeful, furry face camped outside our door:

I walked by these cows dozens of times over the course of our 4-day stay, and each time they’d stop chewing and we’d look deeply into one another’s eyes:

And then there was this guy. He rides along with farmer Trevor in the mornings while checking on the field animals, but spends the rest of most days cooped up in the barn.

But at 5:00 am on Wednesday morning, we got to see him go to work. This dog is pretty excitable, so Trevor puts a muzzle on him and binds one front leg before letting him round up the sheep. It’s unexpected how fast a 3-legged dog can run.

The plan was simple: Trevor and the dog would drive the sheep herd out of one field while we would divert them into another. Neither the sheep nor Natalie were comfortable with this plan:

It worked!

With the sheep successfully re-fielded, we were ready to hang up our rubber wellies and move on to our next destination. We are grateful to farmers Trevor (right) and his son Paul for having us at their farm.

Our destination for the day was the Lake District. On the way, we strayed into Wales a couple times. The mashed-keyboard looking language is Welsh:

We made a mid-day stop in Liverpool:

We didn’t do much there; just walked around a little bit and visited one stretch of sorta-touristy shops:

It’s a big city, so there is quite a lot to do in Liverpool especially if you’re a Beatles fan. We did the bare (free) minimum and continued on:

Our Airbnb was located in an obscure rural town called Wigton.

Our place was a mid-19th century workshop that had been nicely converted into a lovely guesthouse.

Carrie made a friend:

The next morning we did some “car hiking” — that is, we mostly drove from place to place and stopped to take short walks. We spent the first part of the day in Newlands Valley and the surrounding areas:

Even a short walk in the grass soaked my feet. I was wishing I hadn’t left my wellies at the farm.

This was very much the England we were expecting: overcast, damp,…

…windy and chilly.

More great scenery:

Settle a bet: I feel like this roadside sheep was thinking a friendly “Hello,” but Carrie feels it was more of a “Really?”

I’m fascinated by all of the stone walls in England. The amount of work that surely went into them is staggering.

After lunch we made our way to the town of Keswick and walked around the local shops:

Stopping for afternoon tea and coffee. (I tried a cream tea but was disappointed.)

Turns out England is littered with ancient stone formations, such as the nearby Castlerigg Stone Circle. It offers all of the mystical powers of Stonehenge but at a more convenient location:

Natalie soaking up the woowoo:

Over yonder:

That evening I completed a special screening of the 1975 British cinematic masterpiece Monty Python and the Holy Grail for my familyOnly Natalie made it to the end.


On Friday morning, we did cream teas properly:

Our first stop on Friday was Carlisle Castle, a 900-year-old castle that has had a pretty rough go of it for most of those years:

The interior had a vaguely foul smell that didn’t bother me. It added an anxiousness to the experience that I imagine being part of every day medieval life.

After lunch was a visit to Lanercost Priory in Cumbria:

These are the ruins obviously, but attached is a fully roofed section still in use by an Anglican church. There have been regular church services here for the last 850 years.

The main draw of this area however is Hadrian’s Wall, a 73 mile long stone wall built by the Romans in 122AD as a defensive fortification:

My favorite movie in 1991 was the critically panned Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves, and this scene with Kevin Coster and Morgan Freeman was filmed at Hadrian’s Wall:

Natalie and I braved the rain and made the 1-mile hike to Sycamore Gap, the location where that scene was filmed. It made me want to see the movie again.

By mid afternoon, we had crossed over into Scotland:

Back in Indy, we live in a neighborhood called Lockerbie, so we thought it would be fun to see the original:

By Friday night we had arrived at our latest Airbnb, this time an apartment. It doesn’t look like much on the outside, but it is surprisingly nice inside:

We grabbed a traditional UK dinner:

…and settled in for a movie: Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves

Amy, Carrie and Emily took a train to Glasgow Saturday afternoon while Natalie and I stayed back at the apartment (I needed to catch up on some work stuffs). I’ve requested a mini blog post covering their day in Glasgow.

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UK, week 1

Back in December 2016, Amy and our middle daughter Emily began making plans for our Summer 2017 travels, with the main criteria being that we go overseas. Thanks to Scott’s Cheap Flights, they discovered round trip flights to London for less than half of last year’s Hawaii flights, so we all agreed this was the place to go. The next few posts will document Amy’s and Em’s fastidious planning, and our resultant family travels abroad.

We started on Sunday with a bus trip from Indy to Chicago…

…and then a subway from downtown Chicago…

…to Chicago O’Hare International Airport:

So, about Amy: she broke her foot 3 days prior to our departure. This turned out to be the best travel hack ever, however, as we were whisked past the commoners through security and got to board our plane early. If you ever want the VIP treatment at the airport, just show up with a cast and crutches. (If you need to stay honest, go ahead and break your foot).

Everyone was very excited about flying on a 747, so I didn’t have the heart to tell them this heavy beast would never fly:

But fly it did, and 6 hours later we were looking over the cheery, sun-soaked city of London:

So…how hard could driving in the UK be?

Turns out it’s really hard to undo three decades of American driving experience, but each day is getting better. What at first felt overtly suicidal has settled into a manageable discomfort.

Most of us had gotten only a couple hours of sleep on the plane, but it was morning in London — we still had the whole day ahead of us. Our first stop of the trip was in the town of Oxford:

After Oxford we visited the infamous Stonehenge. It was a strange mixture of awe (seeing something so iconic) and humor (thinking of the Stonehenge scene from Spinal Tap.)

At the end of the day we made our way to our first Air B&B in Tedburn St. Mary where we’d spend the next 3 nights.

Tedburn St. Mary is pretty small town; this is the main strip:

But there are two pubs and a little grocery store where we scrounged up enough food for dinner that evening:

The next morning, Amy and I went to a larger grocery store to stock up on food for the next few days:

I thought I’d try a little local breakfast fare. PSA #1: If you try Weetabix, go easy on the milk else it will turn into a soupy mess.

The next day we set out on a driving tour of Dartmoor National Park. This was a random break in the hedgerow along the road where we could admire the rolling English countryside.

About the roads of Dartmoor…


Many of these roads are only the width of one small car, yet they are two-way. And the speed limit is 60 mph. There’s an ever-so-slight bulge in the road every 1/8th mile or so to allow cars traveling in opposite directions to negotiate a pass. So when on-coming vehicles encounter one another, the drivers have to figure out who should back up to the nearest bulge in the road.

Me backing up to the nearest bulge in the road:

We eventually came upon the town of Chagford and stopped to take a look around:

We stopped at the local hardware store hoping to find suitable “wellies” (short for Wellington brand rubber boots) for our up-coming volunteer gig at an organic farm.

I was enamored by this old creepy graveyard but have since realized all of the graveyards in England are old and creepy. Every one.

The sheep of Dartmoor just don’t care:

The distinctive landmarks of Dartmoor are its tors. These piles of boulders that emerge from the otherwise smooth landscape served as the inspiration for the Sherlock Holmes story The Hounds of Baskerville.

They are also fun to climb on:

Even for the hobbled among us:

The next day we set out to see some castles of Cornwall:

This was also the first we’d seen the ocean on this trip. I keep forgetting England is just a big island.

Tintagel Castle was built in the 13th century and is where legend says King Arthur was conceived (eww). Time has not been kind to this castle…

…but it was a great spot for lunch overlooking the ocean:

Also in Cornwall was Launceston Castle built in the 12th century:

The top provided a really nice view of the surrounding town of Launceston:

I was hoping we’d see castles that were a little more intact, but these fixer-uppers were still very cool.

Our Air B&B accommodations in Tedburn St. Mary were quite simple: just a guest bedroom in an otherwise occupied house, with a mini fridge and microwave in the closet. The family was super nice, and I enjoyed hearing the chatter of local family life (homework and bedtime routines, grocery deliveries, morning school pick-up, etc.)

A nearby house sporting a thatched roof — not an uncommon sight ’round ‘ere:

After leaving Tedburn St. Mary on Thursday morning, we made a stop at Exeter University. My girls were hoping to get authentic sweatshirts, but they found the apparel selection in the campus bookstore to be a bit underwhelming.

Amy and I like our coffee in the morning, but I’ve had to accept that half-n-half is not something they put in coffee here. We get weird looks when we ask, and the answer has so far been “sorry, we don’t have cream — just milk.”

Meat pie for lunch:

A farmers market in downtown Exeter, so Amy was happy!

A recommendation we’ve consistently received has been to visit the town of Bath, so that’s where we headed on Thursday afternoon. We got there later than we wanted (parking was a nightmare), but were able to catch the tail end of the last walking tour of the day:

Bath is a charming town steeped in history, and I enjoyed spending the afternoon there. But honestly, all of the towns we’ve stopped at or driven through so far feel right out of the middle ages.

That evening we landed at our second Air B&B, this time in Bristol:

And this time with a full kitchen, and the whole place to ourselves:

It was really nice to enjoy a home-cooked meal at a real table:

Tomorrow we head deep into rural England for several days to volunteer on a farm in exchange for food and lodging. Details to follow…


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Carrie’s Hawaii Video

I proudly enter this video made by my oldest daughter Carrie into the official Arnold travel record:

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Hawaii, week 3 (The End)

We packed a lot in this last week, so settle in for a long read…

The weather in Hawaii continues to beguile me, most recently with episodes of simultaneous rain and sunshine. But I suppose it’s the healthy doses of both that make it so lush here.

We started our final week in Hawaii with the much-anticipated helicopter ride over Kauai on Monday morning. (My mom was insistent that we experience this, so she foot the bill for it — thanks mom!)

It wasn’t a sunny day like we had hoped for, but it was impossible to be disappointed with the view. The rain created innumerable waterfalls to behold, and flying in and out of the clouds was pretty thrilling. (A clear day was a tall order for the middle of Kauai, as this gets the most rainfall of any spot on Earth.)

The sun shown through a few times once we reached the outer edge of the island:

The Na Pali coast was one of my favorite sights. There are no roads along this rugged 16 mile coastline:

Secluded beaches are accessible only by boat or an extremely rigorous hike:

I’m not a timid flyer, but I’m always pleasantly surprised whenever I survive a flight. This was an amazing experience, but I was fine with being back on stable ground:

We took Monday afternoon pretty easy at a beach in Po’ipu:

Carrie and I couldn’t bring ourselves to put on sunscreen again, so we just found a place to sit in the shade:

This was a public beach, but the seals apparently make themselves at home here (the lifeguard had to holler at the people every now and then to not get too close to this seal):

A brief word on the chickens of Kauai: they are everywhere. Parks. Parking lots. Yards. Sides of roads. But the people don’t mind them — not because they are good to eat (I hear they taste terrible) but because they eat a lot of roaches and centipedes:

On Tuesday we drove to Waimea Canyon State Park, which is sometimes called the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific” (we had flown over this during our helicopter ride):

Despite early 20th century efforts to snuff it out, Hawaiian culture and language have experienced a renaissance in the last few decades among many native Hawaiians. This person, as just one example, did not consider himself a US citizen but rather a subject of the former Kingdom of Hawaii:

Despite the low-hanging clouds, the canyon overlook was a great place to squat for lunch. Or at least the start of lunch — it rained shortly after I took this photo:

Seeking shelter from the rain in the small Waimea Canyon museum, I found my new calling: Feral Pig Hunter. Apparently pigs cause all kinds of ecological problems for Hawaii, and hunting them (with the goal of complete eradication) is encouraged. Hang in there, Hawaii….help is on the way.

Wednesday would turn out to be one of our biggest endurance tests: an 8-mile hike on the aforementioned Na Pali Coast to Hanakapi’ai Falls. This is the furthest you can hike on the coast without a permit.

Our progress slowed to a crawl at times as we walked carefully, trying to keep our shoes reasonably clean on a very muddy trail:

Eventually, however, I had to let go and accept my destiny:

Some encouraging signs along the trail:

We came upon a cluster of bamboo trees, which made a very strange and erie knocking sound as the wind blew:

As the hike continued, we traversed slippery rocks over steep ledges:

…thick jungle-like foliage:

…and several deep river crossings:

…but at the end of the trail was a very cool 120 foot waterfall:

Actually, a very cold 120 foot waterfall — Natalie and I jumped in. It took my breath away, but it was quite invigorating after the challenging hike there:

On the hike back, I was a little more intentional about looking up from the muddy trail to take in the beautiful scenery:

Emily has been nursing an eye stye all week. I was impressed with her hands-free warm compress:

We took things pretty easy on Thursday. Amy heard about a secret spot near our resort where sea turtles where known to hang out, so she and I made a little side-hike that afternoon to check it out:

It was a steep descent to the beach, so these ropes that someone had put up came in very handy:

We never saw any turtles, but we found a very cool secluded cave and enjoyed a nice swim:

That evening we had dinner at a local Hawaiian tapas restaurant:

…and afterward perused some of the local shops, like this ukulele-centric store: (Only in Hawaii…)

By Friday morning, we were back at the airport so my mom could return to Indianapolis, and we could move on to the island of Oahu.

Our first stop in Oahu on Friday afternoon was at the University of Hawaii bookstore in Honolulu. My girls like college-wear, so it was a perfect place to acquire some wearable souvenirs:

We had some time to kill before we could check in to our Airbnb house, so we did a short hike at the nearby Diamond Head State Monument:

Diamond Head is a 150,000 year old volcanic crater. The trail started in the flattish, desert-like center:

…but quickly ascended as we reached the outer edge, with a mixture of open trail, cement bunker-like structures and tunnels (it was a military base in the early 1900’s):

At the top of the outer edge, looking back into the crater:

Looking out over the crater edge at downtown Honolulu:

Afterward — acting on a tip from our airport shuttle bus driver — we rewarded ourselves with a trip to Shimazu Store, a popular neighborhood source of shockingly delicious shaved ice (we learned later it is deceivingly easy to overeat on sugar-flavored frozen water):

This remuddled Airbnb house on Oahu wouldn’t fit anyone’s definition of “nice,” especially after living the swanky timeshare resort lifestyle for the past two weeks:

But it was good enough, and if anything, it incentivized us to be out making the most of our dwindling time in Hawaii — and it maybe made me a tiny bit ready to go home. (Here is Natalie putting this place’s first pin over Indiana.)

Amenities included cute critters:

…and not-so-cute critters: (To be fair, I understand cockroaches are abundant in Hawaii, and Oahu doesn’t have Kauai’s chickens to gobble them up.)

That night we drove to Pu’u ‘Ualaka’a State Wayside to watch the sun set. It was a fantastic view of both downtown Honolulu and Diamond Head crater that we had hiked earlier:

Here’s a fun fact Amy learned while chatting up a tour guide standing nearby: Diamond Head’s original Hawaiian name is Le’ahi — a mashup of “lea” which means promontory or point of high land, and “ahi” which means tuna, as the crater from this perspective resembles a tuna’s dorsal fin:


Saturday morning was set aside for Pearl Harbor. All of the reserved tickets for this day had been doled out several days prior, so we had to show up early to try to get some of the first-come-first-serve tickets. By 6:50 am, a long line was already forming:

We got in no problem and started our visit at 7:30am. Here we are on the ferry that takes visitors to the site of the sunken USS Arizona. Narrating was a native Hawaiian who, as an 11 year old boy, witnessed the attack on Pearl Harbor:

Unfortunately, this was as close as we’d get to the Arizona, as the visitor platform that straddles the sunken ship was undergoing repairs:

With the self-paced audio tour, we took our time over the next couple hours learning about that morning of December 7, 1941 and letting it all sink in (that terrible pun is not intended — it’s just the best way to express the weightiness of it all):

A couple of artifacts in particular stuck out to me: an almost fully intact Japanese torpedo found at the bottom of Pearl Harbor in 1991 (!):

…and an initial draft of FDR’s famous “infamy” speech. Note the handwritten annotations, particularly “world history” being punched up with the more impactful “infamy”:

It was a heavy morning, but visiting Pearl Harbor was undoubtedly a highlight of this trip.

By late morning we had made our way to Waikiki beach for a picnic lunch, after which the girls started their eagerly anticipated surfing lesson. They started with some basic stances in the sand for about 10 minutes:

…and then got right to it, enjoying an hour and 50 minutes riding the waves: (Photo credit:

Each daughter expressed having a rad time shredding the sick swells:

We spent the remainder of the afternoon resting on Waikiki beach (or in my case, under a nearby tree — I’m so done with sun screen!):

…and enjoyed some live music and hula dancing:

…before the sun metaphorically set on our Hawaiian vacation:

“Not so fast,” said Amy. We had several hours before our flight on Sunday morning, so we had time for a hike at Manoa Falls:

To commemorate that we were all here, Amy wanted a rare photo of the five of us together. This picture is blurry because Natalie smacked a mosquito on the back of my head right as I snapped this photo:

As a final stop on the way to the airport, we visited the National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific, also known as the Punchbowl as it’s located in the Punchbowl Crater in Honolulu. It was also a time to pause and take in one last view of Hawaiian scenery:

Total side note: we noticed these creatures soon after arriving in Hawaii almost three weeks ago and started jokingly calling them marmosets, not knowing at the time what they or marmosets actually were. I’ve since learned that this is a mongoose, but in my heart — and in total defiance of established animal taxonomy — it shall forever be a marmoset:

At 4pm on Sunday afternoon, we started our long trip home:

A jet-lagged layover in Atlanta nine hours later:

The wrap-up of every trip is always a mix of emotions (sad for it to end, glad to be home, etc.), and this “50th state” milestone is certainly no exception. Over the past five years we’ve traveled long and far, and that is immensely satisfying.

What is simply wonderful is how much remains to be seen.


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Hawaii, week 2

We kicked off our second week on the big island of Hawaii with a trip to Waipi’o Valley on Tuesday. (This was the day I learned to recalibrate my perception of the weather. While it rains a lot here, we’ve not had any true “rainy days” — only rainy hours.)

I was initially disappointed with the cloud cover that completely obscured what was supposed to be a magnificent view:

…but once we descended below the clouds, the view improved:

Did you notice the “25% grade” road sign in the first photo? It was over a half mile of this to get down to the beach (and pure torture coming back up):

Along the way, the girls met a friendly wild colt (this was one of a few horses milling around in the middle of the road):

The road eventually turned into a trail that led to beachfront with lots of trees — providing a bit of a wind break for our lunch stop:

This was supposed to be a fairly substantial hike (~6.5 miles), but it was cut short by an impasse where the river let out into the ocean. The water turned out to be too deep and the current too strong. (Amy got knocked down by a wave!)

We didn’t give up easily — we spent about 15 minutes trying to find another way across, which was enough time for the clouds to disperse:

On the way back up the hill, we found a wrecked truck. Someone had a very bad day on a 25% grade road:

We see unique, handmade “drive slow” signs like this everywhere, which tells what the local Hawaiians think about typical tourist driving patterns. (Note the waterfall in the background.)

On Wednesday we went to Pu’uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park, a preserve illustrating Hawaiian traditions between 1550-1819. Pu’uhonua means “place of refuge” where native hooligans could go for asylum if they could outrun the vigilantes:

It seems like there are lava patches everywhere on this island, and it boggles my mind to stand on rock that was once oozing lava:

This doesn’t look like much, but it’s called Two Step (because it’s kinda like two big stair steps that lead into the water). This is where we snorkeled on Tuesday afternoon. It was awesome. Like, National-Geographic-exotic-fish-and-coral awesome. I have no other pictures because I was busy snorkeling.

Since Kona is on the West side of the Big Island, it was easy to take in the obligatory sunset:

As I mentioned above, the lava fields on this island are fascinating, especially seeing the different ages. There’s fresh-from-earth’s-bowels all the way to nearly-reclaimed-by-nature, and it makes it quite easy to imagine how this entire island came to be.

On Thursday, we wanted to do another beach day. But a beach that any sucker can simply drive to would not do, so we chose the Makalawena Beach at the end of a mile-long trek through a lava field wasteland:

This poor goat-shaped person should have opted for the closer beach:

It was blazing hot, but before long, appearing over the sandy hills at the end of the trail…

…was our big payoff. This was the idyllic, postcard Hawaii beach that I was hoping we’d see at some point:

Amy and the girls enjoyed relaxing on the sand. I took a nap under a tree.

On Friday, it was time to move on from the big island of Hawaii:

After a short layover in Maui, we landed on the island of Kauai:

This is our home for the week, another timeshare condo courtesy of my mother — who flew in from Indy to join us for our week in Kuaui!

Without thinking, I agreed to a “free” breakfast at the resort’s clubhouse on Saturday morning. But the “cost” was having to sit through an insufferable presentation on how to cram your week full of exhausting activities while bleeding money into the local economy. (They may have used different words.)

A nice view from a scenic overlook while driving around on Saturday morning:

You guessed it — farmer’s market:

Just like with farmer’s markets, Amy loves her fresh seafood. We picked up some ono, “sweet, very good to eat” fish for grilling later that evening:

We made a final stop for the day at the Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge. It was a good spot to watch some of the local seabirds, as many different kinds call this site home:

It was a source of both lovely ocean scenery…

…and junior high caliber jokes:

The free Mai Tai’s (and to a lesser extent, the live music and hula dancer) at the resort that evening made up for the activities presentation earlier that morning. All was forgiven.

We originally planned to do an epic 8-mile hike on Sunday, but the morning got away from us. We moved on to plan B — SUP (Stand Up Paddle) boarding:

SUP boarding is just what it sounds like: you stand (or sit, or kneel) on a surfboard-ish thing and paddle through the water. Amy and I had done this before, but it was new for the girls. They took to it instantly, and we paddled nearly 4 miles over 2 hours. (Side note about the weather: it cycled through sunny, cloudy and rain about a half dozen times over those two hours. I guess this is just how the weather rolls ’round here.)

I’ve enjoyed seeing these red-crested Brazilian cardinals flying around (and this one enjoyed the bread crumbs from my lunch):

Tomorrow should be pretty fun: we’re starting the week with a morning helicopter ride over Kauai. I’m hoping it won’t be a rainy hour.

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Visit all 50 States? Check.

This week we reached a travel milestone for our family: Having visited the other 49 states in our motorhome, it was time to hop on a plane and see the final state of Hawaii.

We started the adventure in a BlueIndy (one of the electric rental cars that we use fairly regularly ’round town) for an easy one-way 4:30am drive to the airport:

I was pretty sure we could cram the five of us into one of these cars, but I forgot to factor in the impact of luggage. And the total weight. We made it work, however. Barely.

It was a full day of flying — Indy to LAX to Seattle to Kona — where we slept…

…watched movies, read books, and in every way “killed time”…

…until, 22 hours later, we arrived in Kona, Hawaii:

Air travel is amazing that way I suppose, but it’s very different from the RV experience where the journey is as meaningful as the destination.

The Kona airport was interesting; it’s essentially an outdoor airport, which I took as a sign that it must not rain here very often. (I was very wrong — it’s rained a little every day so far.)

It wasn’t until the next morning that we got our first actual view of Hawaii from our hotel balcony:

Toes were in the water shortly thereafter:

After a quick morning walk around Kona (and spending a small fortune on a simple breakfast), we went to a familiar place to load up on essential food and supplies:

After lunch, we made the 2-hour, cross-island drive from Kona to Hilo and got checked in to our Airbnb house. That afternoon, we took a drive into downtown Hilo to visit their tsunami museum. (The town of Hilo has been devastated by tsunami twice in recent history, once in 1946 and then again in 1960.)

We then stopped at a beautiful local park in Hilo to take in a fine collection of banyan trees. Below is one (yes, one) such tree:

These trees are pretty amazing. They start by sprouting up like regular trees, but then they drop roots back into the ground from above, ultimately creating a beautiful, tangled mess of skeletal root-branches:

This was our Airbnb home, located about 20 minutes inland from Hilo:

This house was located at a noticeably higher elevation compared to the coast — our ears would pop as we drove to and from downtown Hilo. It was also a very rural area, so the nighttime sounds of insects and frogs were some of the loudest I’ve heard.

Saturday was to be a very full day. We started in the morning with a visit to the nearby (and aptly-named) Rainbow Falls:


…and climbed some more banyan trees:

Amy is a sucker for farmers markets, so the one in Hilo later that morning (with fresh, locally-grown exotic fruits and vegetables) had her in a near trance:

We enjoyed several new food discoveries that day. These lychee tasted like (delicious) grapes:

…the apple bananas tasted like regular bananas, but with more tartness and cuteness:

…this mountain apple tasted like how fresh flowers smell (strangely good):

…and Natalie curiously described her  coconut water as tasting “a little like puke, but still good.” (I concurred with the first part.)

We then made our way to Hawai’i Volcanos National Park, starting with a visit to the Halemaumau Crater. This is an active lake of lava that spews out toxic sulfur dioxide gas, so they don’t let you get too close:

The main objective of the afternoon was to get in a good hike. The start of the trail was actually an old roadway that is apparently being allowed to return to nature. This, along with an occasional dilapidated road sign, gave it a fun post-apocalyptic, Walking Dead feel:

As we hiked, we could look down into a lava lake that has been inactive since 1959:

The trail also took us through a lava tube, which is basically a natural conduit left in the earth where molten lava once flowed:

These were just a couple signs along the trail that I found amusing:

The trail eventually took us down into the hardened lava lake that we saw from the overlook earlier:

This was my favorite experience so far. It felt so other-worldly, like being on another planet:

Lava rocks are surprisingly light, as demonstrated by Natalie:

They are also surprisingly sharp, as demonstrated by Natalie:

This is what “Internet Hour” looks like, an innovative new tactic in cruel parenting. For the duration of this trip, we are limiting the girls’ daily internet connectivity to one hour, which we hope will help them be fully present here the other 23. (You’re welcome, girls.)

Before calling it a night on Saturday, we drove back to the Halemaumau Crater to see the glow of the lava against the starry nighttime sky:

We drove to Lava Trees State Park on Sunday morning to see the “lava tree molds.” This phenomenon was created in the 1700’s when lava flowed through here, coating the trees and leaving the molds intact after the trees died and rotted away:

It really wasn’t that interesting, but it felt good to walk around and to see vegetation I don’t get to see every day in Indiana:

After the lava trees, we stopped at yet another farmers market. (It turned into a delicious lunch stop.)

After checking out of our Airbnb house, we hit the road and started making our way back toward Kona. We stopped at a local coffee farm along the way:

We love tours, so here we learned all about how coffee is grown, harvested and roasted. Did you know green coffee beans are the worlds #2 commodity? (Oil is #1.)

By the end of the afternoon, we were checked into our condo in Kona where we will spend the rest of the week:

Monday morning was bright and sunny, so we decided it would be a good day to spend at the beach:

After a few hours of swimming and snorkeling, we drove a bit down the road to walk a very different type of beach: (Note the overcast weather, a mere 15 minutes after leaving the previous sunny beach.)

This stretch of beach is known for its sea turtles, and we were lucky enough to see a few sleeping on the shore and still others swimming in the tide nearby:

Up this week: more hiking, more beaches and at least one more National Park. It’s going to be a good week!


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Goodbye, old friend.


We had to say goodbye to the ol’ Southy today. We sold it, and it has moved on to its next adventure, this time to some wonderful people out of sunny Arizona.

I try not to get attached to “things,” but this thing was different. As a colleague of mine phrased it, RVs are memory-making machines and, well, this RV made us a lot of memories.

Not a completely sad day, however: Hawaii 2016 is officially funded!

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RV for sale…*sniff*

The Arnold RV is officially for sale. Interested suitors can see this page for more details. Memories not included.



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Summer 2015 RV trip: week 3

As planned, we spent last Saturday walking around Quebec City. To my delight, everyone was quite friendly and, if they could, readily switched to English when they detected our awful attempts at French.

The weather wasn’t fantastic for much of the day, but we could still enjoy walking around and experiencing what a cool town Quebec City is.

It’s pretty interesting how this large city has grown up around the stone walls built hundreds of years ago to keep out invaders.

We really want to go to Europe, and this entire Quebec trip was inspired by the recommendation from a friend (thanks Tawn!) as a more immediate, drive-able substitute. This city’s shops built on narrow, hilly downtown roads did indeed feel very European.

While much of the graffiti of Quebec City has undeniable artistic merit, I was sad to see so much history wantonly vandalized:

It rained Saturday night. Big deal, I know, but it rained really, really hard and I want to remember it:

I’m sure I’ve noted this elsewhere on our blog, but there’s an axiom of RVing that states “if it ain’t broke, it soon will be.” That refrigerator door broke right off its hinges, so it was MacGyver time on Sunday morning:

Sunday was our last day behind Canadian lines, so it was time to stock up on essential supplies like these:

…and several bottles of french wine:

…and lastly, thanks to a fortuitous wrong turn, a Quebec-y dish we’d been meaning to try:

It’s called poutine, and it’s just fries, cheese curds, brown gravy, and a whole lotta delicious:

I like Canada a lot, but after a week of faking French, I was glad to cross that black line back into ‘Merica:

The hills of the Gaspé Peninsula — and Quebec in general — really took a toll on our brakes. We had a leaky brake seal replaced in Burlington, Vermont on Monday, hoping that would solve our smoking brake problem. (It didn’t.)

Monday night was supposed to be a routine stop at the Walmart in Rutland, Vermont, but this place gave me the heebee jeebees. The parking lot was shared with an Amtrack station, and I wasn’t convinced we were on the right side of those tracks.

Reason #781 of why I love RVing: If you don’t like where you’re at, move. We found suitable refuge down the road at Hannaford’s:

As I mentioned a couple weeks ago, we’re having some kitchen work done at home while we travel, and our route happened to take us by the Vermont Marble Company where our counter tops are coming from. Turns out they’ve supplied marble for other projects like the Supreme Court Building, the Jefferson Memorial, the Lincoln Memorial and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, so their resumé seems pretty solid.

On Tuesday we enjoyed the hospitality of my cousin Joe and his wife Rose in Syracuse, NY. Joe is on staff at Syracuse University and gave us a tour of this lovely campus. Rose is a french-speaking native of Quebec, so it was fun talking with her and getting all of our French Canadian questions answered!

Amy is a grocery store connoisseur, so she was delighted to be in a state that has her favorite grocery store in the whole wide world:

The RV brakes overheated again the previous day, so I spent much of Wednesday calling around looking for some service. Butch at Butch’s Automotive in Liverpool, NY looked at our brakes and advised us to limp home where our normal repair shop could fix them right. (Butch could have done the work, but the RV would have been unusable for a couple days at least.)

Wednesday evening, Amy and I celebrated 20 years of marriage at the Ellicottville Brewing Company in the charming, podunk town of Fredonia, NY. That might not sound like anything fancy, but it was better than the parking lot at Butch’s Automotive.

Thursday morning, the girls and I hung out at a local library while Amy took a half-day field trip to the Chautauqua Institution — an arts and education-centric community she heard about on NPR. The bigwig speaker that day was Alberto Gonzolaz, former US Attorney General.

On Thursday evening we rolled into my hometown of Avon Lake, OH. Our friends Rock and Kym were kind enough to lend us their driveway for the evening on very short notice.

We were glad to have a real campsite on Friday night at East Harbor State Park in Lakeside-Marblehead, OH — it was very warm that evening, so having electrical hookups let us run the ACs without running the smelly generator. We did spend a little bit of time outside to roast (burn) some marshmallows, however:

Saturday was ridiculously fun. We met up with my dearest friend from high school, Jenny, and her husband Bob on Kelleys Island. We toured the island on golf carts:

…saw a so-lame-it-was-charming parade (free candy!):

…hung out on Bob’s and Jen’s swanky boat:

…and cooled off in Lake Erie:

We enjoyed a late dinner with evening fireworks before catching the ferry back to our campsite. It was a very full, very fun day. (Thank you, Bob and Jen, for such a wonderful time!)

We slept in on Sunday and took our time getting to Amy’s parents’ house in Delphos, OH. We’re decompressing here for a few days before driving the final stretch back to Indy.

A mostly-done new kitchen waiting for us at home gives us something to look forward to I suppose, but I’m always a little sad when an RV trip wraps up — especially this one, because this was likely this RV’s last adventure with us.

Yes, it’s time to say goodbye to the ol’ Southy in order to fund a trip to the only state we’ve not traveled to yet.

I’m talking to you, Hawaii.

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Summer 2015 RV trip: week 2

Bonjour! (More on that in a minute…)

Before leaving Ottawa last Thursday, we made another trip downtown since the weather was much nicer than the previous day. There was still more to see, like the Prime Minister’s office:

…and their impressive Parliament Hill:

The good spirits from Canada Day still lingered in the air, especially from this friendly police officer:

We thought we were seizing a rare opportunity to pick up some items at IKEA, but we ended up passing at least two others as we continued through Ontario and Québec.

That evening, we boondocked next to the barn of our host Jean-Pierre in (very) rural Glen Robertson, Ontario:

Traveling the next morning, we noticed the road signs were only in French. When I snapped these photos, I imagined telling a story of a freaky little Canadian town that was so backwoods only French was spoken there. But non! Turns out this was the start of a weeklong new reality of feeling like an illiterate foreigner:

We didn’t have any good boondocking options for Friday, so we ponied up for our first paid site with full hookups at an actual campground. (Full hookups = long showers.)

Friday was an easy travel day, so we had most of the day left to explore Montreal. We drove the Jeep a reasonable distance into downtown but then took the subway to our final destination: Old Montreal.

Public transportation isn’t anything I’d call fun, but it is a great way to dive into the local population and get a sense of what a city is like.

We walked the cobble stone streets of Old Montreal, perused the shops and watched some street performers. It was interesting, I suppose, but Amy had a more apt description: tourist trap:

After driving most of the day on Saturday, we stopped in Rivière-du-Loup, Quebec for dinner and to enjoy some welcomed natural scenery. This is the kind of stuff we like:

We also tried to order ice cream using our limited French. It’s amazing how far one can get with simple words like please, thank you, and general pointing and grunting in a friendly manner.

We had no idea where we were going to camp Saturday night. There was a local Walmart, but we feared that it would be one of the many Canadian Walmarts where overnight parking is not allowed. Our fears were unfounded:

Reason #592 why I love RVing: With no internet and really nothing else to do most late evenings, sweet boredom sets in and drives us to desperate measures of socializing together in ways we just don’t seem to do at home.

Sunday was another long travel day with no definite end-goal in mind. We landed at a nice little city park in Carleton-sur-Mer, Quebec to eat dinner, take a walk and burn up some energy:

We drove a few miles to the next little town of Maria, Quebec and found a nice church parking lot complete with a creepy 19th century French graveyard. Good ’nuff.

I hardly ever get sick, so it’s perhaps fitting that I caught a terrible cold while on vacation. I stayed pretty well coked up on this stuff, however, which added a nice dream-like, ethereal dimension to our travels. Canada’s awesome! (Amy drove.)

On Monday we hustled to Percé, Quebec for a boat trip to Parc de l’Ile Bonaventure et du-Roche-Percé. This rock is the iconic image from the Gaspé Peninsula, our furthest-most destination for this trip:

Bonaventure Island provides a good habitat for grey seals:

The boat trip included a stop on Bonaventure Island where we did some hiking:

Our trail led to the largest, most accessible nesting ground for thousands of Northern gannets, all of whom sound highly annoyed with one another:

More hiking the next morning at Forillon National Park; our first sign of whales in the Chaleur Bay. We later learned that it could have been a humpback or fin whale:

The girls were too tired, but Amy and I took in one more hike Tuesday evening to a wonderful lookout over the mouth of the St. Lawrence River:

I’ll just say it: these hills suck. The past several days the RV has been grinding its way up steep roads at 25 mph and then careening down the other side at 70+ mph. It’s hard on the RV and mentally exhausting for us. I don’t recall roads like this since the Rocky Mountains.

Our brakes were smoking after a particularly grueling series of climbs and descents on Tuesday evening, so we stopped at a little pull-off to let them cool. We ended up just calling it a night and slept to the soothing sound of waves lapping the rocky shore. It was fantastic.

By Wednesday we had reached Trois-Pistoles, Quebec, completing our circle of the Gaspé Peninsula. We settled in for the night near the dock where our ferry would leave the next morning, taking us to the northern shore of the St. Lawrence River:

All of the towns we’ve been passing through have similar characteristics: quaint homes, cozy inns, maybe a market or two and a prominent church with a majestic steeple.

Thursday morning was our big ferry ride. They packed us in like sardines. The ride took an hour and a half to cross the St. Lawrence. It is a very wide river.

I have two things to say about this Canadian junk food discovery: 1) try these if you can find them, 2) you’re welcome:

Thursday night we splurged again on a local campground campsite in Tadoussac, Quebec. Given that we were low on water, needed to empty our waste tanks and were all a little desperate for WiFi, this was a great option.

Settling in at a camping spot early also gave us some time to take in a quick evening hike along the Saguenay Fjord:

Friday morning, we drove the Jeep to Cap-de-Bon-Désir, a popular spot for whale watching in the St. Lawrence River. We saw several white Beluga whales and a couple of these Minke whales:

People participated at different levels:

They don’t apparently believe in bridges around Tadoussac, so we took another ferry across the Saguenay River:

The first Walmart we landed at outside of Quebec City on Friday night didn’t allow overnight parking, but we found one not too far away that did.

Tomorrow we venture into Quebec City, which — we’ve been warned — could be the most challenging for us non-French speakers. The forecast calls for party haughty with a chance of snootiness.

Prove me wrong, Quebec City. Prove me wrong…

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